For most of us our boats have been quietly taking a long winters nap awaiting warm sunshine and the summer days ahead. Several things should be considered before turning the key and starting your season.

Batteries are often the most overlooked items we have on a boat. They stay in dark covered areas usually located near the stern of the boat and are mostly covered with a black plastic splash proof box. Out of site out of mind is generally the treatment batteries receive yet without this one critical component your day of fun will quickly become a day filled with aggravation.

First open the black splash proof box and get familiar with your battery. Locate the positive (red) lead and negative (black) lead and see how they are connected. This is a great time to figure out what wrench fits the nut that holds the leads in place. Coat the wrench with silicone spray and store in a zip lock baggie. This should be one of your essential tools kept on the boat at all times.

Second check for corrosion build up around the leads. Corrosion is inherent with boats that are used in fresh and salt water and a constant check should be done several times a year. Loosen the nuts holding the leads to the battery terminals and apply a thin coat of waterproof grease to this area then retighten.

Lastly, check the water level in all the cells. This is done by removing the caps from the top of the battery and physically looking in the small openings. Distilled water only should be used to refill these cells with a water level of an inch or so from the top of the opening. Replace the caps and wipe any excess that may have spilled. Remember this water is mixed with battery acid and should be treated with caution. Eye protection and latex gloves are recommended as well as long sleeves to protect your arms.

Place your battery on a 12V charger after the above has been done. Using the lower settings (trickle charge) is best to assure a full and complete charge as a dormant battery will usually take longer to replenish. The lower settings will help in this area and also keep down heat generated when the battery is being recharged. Batteries will loose approximately 5% a month of their reserve when not being used and with today’s electrically sensitive four strokes this could cause the motor to not start.

If after all above has been done and you find the battery still not holding a charge or showing signs of weakness replace it immediately. Dying or near dying batteries are no friend to any part of your electrical system and can cause lots of issues you really don’t want to be apart of. Splitting battery cases leaking dangerous acid inside your boat. Fumes from poor fitting water caps attacking every electrical fitting they come in contact with. And the biggie you can’t go boating or might get stuck in the middle of nowhere 12 miles out!

When replacing the battery check to see what CCA and RSV capacity your battery is rated for. Cold cranking amps (CCA) and reserve (RSV) are very important to your make, model and year four stroke motor. Remember, more power in either of these areas is not necessarily a good thing and defiantly having less power will do harm to your motor's onboard computer. If you’re unsure call your local dealer for the proper ratings.

So get the cover off your boat and give your batteries some love. The more love you show them the more they will show you.